Of course I had my heart set on a Balmacaan raincoat at a time when there are almost zero raglan sleeved coat patterns available. Luckily, Simplicity 2858 was pretty close to what I wanted and I didn’t have to fuss around with it too much. I love how it turned out.
I made these changes to the pattern:
Added an overlap for buttonholes (the pattern calls for loops and buttons that meet at the centerfront)
Added a covered placket (really easy, I just made a finished tube and topstitched it into place)
Lengthened the sleeve and added a cuff
I used the collar from Butterick 6900 (out of print, but you can still purchase it at Butterick.com) it has a nicer shape than the Simplicity collar. I wish I had re-drawn the neckline to make it a little smaller; the collar sits away from the neck more than I’d like it to
I also used the welt pocket from Butterick 6900
This fabric was great to sew up; it’s stretch cotton with a subtle twill weave. It did tend to creep, though, so I employed the “hold it taut while you stitch” method. I had to really pull it tight in front and back of the presser foot while stitching, but still allow the machine to feed properly.
The coat is fully lined. I thought about finishing the seam allowances with bias tape instead, but the light color made it too see through. I admire all the beautifully finished unlined jackets and coats some of you blogging sewists make, but I’m a little too lazy for that so I usually line instead.
The fabric was very inexpensive, around $4/yard and I used about 2 yards. I had a hell of a time finding buttons for it and ended up with yellow shell buttons that were $4 each ($20 total)! We have a derth of fabric stores in the Chicago area and I have to run all over the place to find fabric and notions. Next time I’m going to plan ahead and order online!