Project MyWay #14–Theory Knock-off Skirt & Top

  I wanted that Theory skirt, in a different color which I showed you in Fall Wardrobe ’08–Part 5. I decided on fatigue green (again!)–the color feels fall-ish and I love how it looks with black.
I started with Simplicity 4422, which, unfortunately has been discontinued. You can still purchase it on the Simplicity website, or, use another similar pattern. The important elements you’re looking for are a slightly A-line skirt with a flat front (no darts, gathering or pleats) and a waistband facing instead of a waistband.

I added pockets to the pattern—front slanted pockets and rear welt pockets with flaps. To re-draw the front pattern piece, I started with a pocket facing pattern piece from another pattern. I used this to trace a new front and side front piece. Here is the new front pattern:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And here is the new side front pattern piece:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For the back pockets I drew a pocket flap:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For the back welts, I used the method from The Fashion Incubator. This method is so exciting–I struggled with welt pocket for years; experimenting with every method I could find and getting mediocre results. This is a factory method and is so simple; I’ve had excellent results every time I’ve used it, with many different fabric weights. Detailed instruction are available by clicking the link above, these photos will add to your understanding:
Step 1:  Iron folds in welt, using the paper jig as a guide:

 

 

 

 

 

Here is the creased welt with the stitching lines marked for beginning and ending:

 

 

 

 

 

Step 2:  Stitch welt to skirt back, about ¼” from each folded edge, starting and ending at chalk marks:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 3:  Slash welt open to within ½” of each end, snip diagonally to the ends of the stitching at each end of the welt. Turn welts to inside, press:

 

 

 

 

 

Step 4:  Stitch ends of welts, catching the triangles of skirt fabric at each end:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 5:  For the flap, interface and construct the flap, turn and press it (I used Easy Knit interfacing), then tuck it inside the welt and stitch it to the seam allowance of the top welt:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 6:  Make a pocket facing out of the corduroy (4” x 8”) and a pocket (4” x 11”) out of lining material and stitch them together:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 7:  Stitch the pocket to the welts, top and bottom. Stitch the sides of the pocket:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 8:  Finally, stitch in the ditch of the top welt, from the right side, to hold it all in place:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Not bad, eh?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For the front pocket, I used a strip of the selvedge edge from my lining material to make a stay for the front. The corduroy has lycra in it, so it was important to stabilize that diagonal seam and the lining fabric is tightly woven and light weight, so the finished seam is not bulky:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For the self belt, I made a fabric tube 1” wide and topstitched it into place from back dart to back dart. I made 4  belt carrier tabs about ¾” wide and covered the topstitching in back with two of them and spaced the other two evenly in the front. That was a change from the original skirt, but I liked the detail of the tabs in the front:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The top is made with Kwik Sew 2740, a basic, fitted t-shirt and turtleneck pattern. I used a bamboo knit fabric that is so yummy, almost as fine as a silk knit, without the snags!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I followed the directions except for a few things…

I tried to make a cap sleeve from the short sleeve, but it turned out to be just a shorter sleeve—next time I’ll cut off more length. As always, I cut 4 sleeves and sewed them together at the hem, understitched, then treated them as one sleeve when I sewed them to the shirt–it’s a nicer fininsh than a topstitched sleeve hem.
I customized the height of the turtleneck, making it higher than the mock version, but not as high as the traditional folded over turtleneck.
For the finishing touches, I purchased the Cole Haan skimmers I showed you in my post Fall Shoes and Boots:

 

 

 

 

At first I was thinking of black opaque tights and black shoes to go with this outfit, but I couldn’t resist the burgundy suede skimmers and I think they’ll look kind of kicky with the green skirt!

And a new pair of earrings!:

 

 

 

 

 

Ta-ta for now!