I knew the fabrics I brought back from India would easily find a way into my wardrobe. It was cool enough to wear jeans last week (yea!) and I wanted something fresh to wear with my favorite pair. I whipped up this Butterick 3385 top with the Salwar Kameez fabric I showed you in my post, Fabrics from India.
It’s always important to read the description of the pattern on the back of the envelope. This one was described as semi-fitted. Here is a chart outlining ease allowances for each fit description from Vogue Patterns:
|Misses’ Ease Allowances|
|Bust Area||Hip Area|
|Silhouette||Dresses, Blouses, Skirts, Tops, Vests||Jackets||Coats||Shirts, Pants, Shorts, Culottes|
|Lined or Unlined|
|Close Fitting||0 -2 7/8“||not applicable||0 – 1 7/8“|
|Fitted||3 – 4″||3 3/4 – 4 1/4“||5 1/4 – 6 3/4“||2 – 3″|
|Semi-Fitted||4 1/8 – 5″||4 3/8 – 5 3/4“||6 7/8 – 8″||3 1/8 – 4″|
|Loose Fitting||5 1/8 – 8″||5 7/8 – 10″||8 1/8 – 12″||4 1/8 – 6″|
|Very Loose Fitting||over 8″||over 10″||over 12″||over 6″|
When compared to standard pattern measurements, this pattern was actually close fitting–I wish I put a zipper in it! (There was no zipper included in this pattern. ) I couldn’t even get th top onto my dress form–I’m not sure how I get onto me, I must be less well endowed than my dress form I have worn this top a couple of times, and once it’s on, it looks good.
To finish the neckline and armholes with bias strips, I used this method:
1. Trim away seam allowances from garment
2. Cut a bias strip 6 X finished width and extra long so you can trim it to fit
3. Fold and press bias strip in half, lengthwise
4. Stitch folded bias strip to garment, right side of strip to wrong side of garment, having all raw edges together. Be sure to stretch strip around curves when fitting it to garment
5. Press seam allowance toward the bias strip
6. Turn folded edge of bias strip to right side of garment, encasing the seam allowance and sew into place, stitching very close to the folded edge.
This method produces the most professional looking results on light weight fabrics, even if the first 5 steps aren’t executed perfectly. Cut the bias strip a little wider for heavier fabrics…the bulkier the fabric, the wider the strip must be to accommodate the folding and turning. Since this method uses a wider strip than the traditional method of using a single layer strip and turning and folding the raw edge under, it is best kept to lighter weight fabrics.
Ta-ta for now!