How to Install Sleeve Heads

Here’s an interesting, if complicated article on how to install sleeve heads in a tailored jacket. Using sleeve heads is worth the effort, as they make a big difference in the professional appearance of the finished sleeve.

Here’s the article, from The Sewing Divas, by Els…

Sleeve heads

Instuctions for Sewing Felt Undercollar

  1. Before you cut into the felt, suede, or ultrasuede trim away all the seam allowances  surrounding the undercollar pattern piece
  2. Cut out one whole undercollar on the fold
  3. Pin this undercollar to the interfaced uppercollar, which has the seam allowances turned under (miter the corners of the upper collar), and catch-stitch the undercollar to the interfacing at the upper and side edges about 1/2″ inside the seam lines
  4. Baste the lower edge of the undercollar to the neckline seam allowance, placing the cut edge of the under collar along the stitching line
  5. Baste the undercollar to the uppercollar about 1/4″ (6mm) from all edges, then trim a scant 1/8″ (3mm) from all the raw edges
  6. Using a small blanket stitch, sew the undercollar to the uppercollar and neckline seams. (See diagram below:)