I have a love/hate relationship with shoes and boots. I won’t buy shoes or boots unless I love them and they have to pass rigorous scrutiny to be loved. They must be: (more…)
I’ve had a wonderful top-of-the line Bernina for 15 years and I had never purchased a narrow hemming foot! The problem with narrow hemming the other way (turning and stitching, trimming and turning and stitching again) is that by the time you stitch around the hem twice on delicate fabric, it almost always starts to flutter.
Here is a narrow hem technique I saw on a very expensive designer silk skirt (Project MyWay #1): The skirt front was narrow hemmed, the skirt back was narrow hemmed, then the side seams were sewn. If you’re careful to have the side seams of the fronts and backs end at exactly the same place, this gets around the fact that the first half inch in of a hem using a narrow hemming foot looks horrible, as it’s hidden in the side seam.
Here is the best tutorial I’ve found for narrow hemming from Jan Andrea, at Home on the Web., it has great pictures and instructions:
Even with this great tutorial, I was still having trouble catching my stitching on the folded hem. Finally, I changed from my single hole sole plate (which I always use on fine fabrics–keeps the fabric from getting shoved down into the throat plate) to the zig-zag throat plate and set my needle position to the right. This worked pretty well for light weight fabric.
I don’t think I’ve ever installed a “perfect” invisible zipper. My Achilles tendon is the bubble that wants to form at the bottom of the zipper, I think because the fabric stretches in one direction when you sew the first side of the zipper and then stretches in the other direction when you sew the second side.
That said, my invisible zippers look pretty damn good and by far better than lapped or centered zippers.
Here is the best tutorial I’ve ever seen on inserting an invisible zipper. It has clear pictures and instructions.
One thing I can add, if you can’t find the perfect color zipper, the zipper stop (the only part that shows on the right side) can be painted with model car paint available at hobby and toy stores. This gives many more options to match the color of the zipper stop to your garment.
Here’s the article: